M05 or M03

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M05 or M03

Postby BODYMOT » Sat Feb 26, 2011 5:21 pm

M05 or M03
Just interested, Notice that some have gone back to M03, only ever run M05 just wondered if you found M03 was easier to drive, set up or found faster than M05.
Tam minis are still new to us at Sidcup but we are learning. Tam minis are getting more popular each month in our area; we have a new club just starting in downham Bromley who race Mardaves and Tam minis .We now have, Sidcup, West kent, Maritime, London Mardave Racing Club where you can race a Tam mini all under the same rules. I think Tam minis are filling a gap that Touring cars are missing at the moment, a class that a beginner can learn to drive and race RC cars and then if they want to go on to Touring cars.
And the best bit, I have never had so much fun for so little money ;) .
Ben :D
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby Dan Hamblin » Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:13 pm

Only ever used an M03 myself and even then it is the short wheelbase version as I prefer the Rover Mini shell over the other types. Main difference is the greater weight over the front wheels and a slightly higher centre of gravity, so in theory the car should have a more natural tendency to oversteer.

It will be interesting to see how mine goes tomorrow as I have the latest upgrade installed ;)

Regards,

Dan
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby Shawn Herrington » Sat Feb 26, 2011 8:59 pm

So you have your new servo then Dan :D
Don't forget Eastbourne too Ben; the original instigators of the Tamiya Mini's some 3 1/2 years ago after seeing how popular they were with the Eurocup boys.

M03 or M05 depends on who you speak to.
If you have never used the '03 then you have no benchmark to compare yourself against but personally I prefer the older car. Then on the other hand we have Grant who is just as quick with his "sorted" M05.
I find I can hussle the M03 better and it will go where ever I point it. The more I pushed the M05 the more it would just understeer...

The M03 is quick straight out of the box and the M05 has a habit to oversteer. Dial out the oversteer and you get the understeer.
I expect there's a setup out there that cures the problem but having perservered all last summer I never felt 100% happy. There were a few moments of inspiration but it's not something I really got to grips with, and my turning point was when I built my old M03 back up as a wet car. Tried it once in the dry for a quick systems check and I've not looked back since. Now infact Rhys, Kian, Simond, Stuart and now possibly Richard H have all done the same.
I think the M05 is just too well balance for it's own good. The M03 has much more weight up front and being front wheel drive it really does make the difference.

If you want a go of one of mine Ben, or even Dan ( to convince yourself you need to go medium wheelbase ;) ) just ask. I have a spare. But be aware I use sticks though.
Last edited by Shawn Herrington on Sat Jun 08, 2013 6:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby BODYMOT » Sun Feb 27, 2011 2:58 pm

Shawn Herrington wrote:
Don't forget Eastbourne too Ben; the original instigators of the Tamiya Mini's some 3 1/2 years ago after we saw how popular they were with the Eurocup boys.

Sorry Shawn, didn’t put Eastbourne down because the rules on web site are a lot different from the other clubs.
(Any two wheel drive, any sealed can motor no less than 20T, Ball diff.)
Ben
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby Shawn Herrington » Sun Feb 27, 2011 7:19 pm

Yeah I guess you are right Ben.
We have tried Ball diffs and other makes of motors. Neither of which were any better than what we already use, and the idea is to have the playing field as level as can be.

On a side note it was nice to see another win for an Eastbourne spec today though a? :D
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby THancock » Sun Feb 27, 2011 7:21 pm

Hi Ben,

Could you provide a link to those rules that allow any 2WD chassis and any sealed can no less than 20T? I can't find them, in fact the rules I can find state that only M03 and its derivatives are allowed.

Regardless of the rules though, you'll still find that the fastest minis are M03s with nothing more than the S grip tyres and oil filled shocks. Use the stiffer springs on the rear and the soft ones on the front and if you're using LiPos, don't forget to add plenty of weight to the rear end to keep it planted. The only other tuning aid you need is adding super glue to the outside block of tread of the front tyres if you are experiencing oversteer or grip roll. After that, you should find it handles like a very slow touring car with very predictable handling which lets you concentrate on keeping your lines tight to reduce the distance you travel around the track.

- Tim.
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby Shawn Herrington » Sun Feb 27, 2011 7:24 pm

http://www.sidcupracing.co.uk/Tamiya%20Mini%20rules.htm
http://www.wkrcc.co.uk/winterrules.php

Ben means the other clubs running the Mini's allow the other motors and ball diffs Tim.

You need to get your Mini back out too. Hard springs on the rear and extra weight?
That's just soooo last year :D
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby THancock » Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:27 am

Shawn Herrington wrote:http://www.sidcupracing.co.uk/Tamiya%20Mini%20rules.htm
http://www.wkrcc.co.uk/winterrules.php

Ben means the other clubs running the Mini's allow the other motors and ball diffs Tim.


Ah okay.

Shawn Herrington wrote:You need to get your Mini back out too. Hard springs on the rear and extra weight?
That's just soooo last year :D


Give it a couple of weeks and I should be okay to drive again so I might just do that :)
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby Brian Mills » Mon Feb 28, 2011 3:27 pm

Hi Tim,
Hows the back doing?
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Re: M05 or M03

Postby THancock » Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:15 am

Brian Mills wrote:Hi Tim,
Hows the back doing?


Much better thanks Brian. The op was a success (so far) and all the pain has gone from my leg. The recovery is slow though. Two weeks of being horizontal has led to a loss of strength in my back which makes sitting very uncomfortable. The plan for the next few weeks is to gently increase the amount of time I spend seated in order to build up my strength levels without causing further damage. I should be able to drive again in about 4 weeks with a full recovery in 12 weeks :)
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